Armour Archive Faq Version 1.3

A: The Armour Archive is an anarcho-syndicalist commune. We take it in turns to act as a sort of executive officer ... Sorry... the people responsible for writing the FAQ have been sacked.
The Archive is currently "run" by 2 editors, J.T., and Lisa -- with assistance from Matt (the creator of the Archive)

J.T. handles the day-to-day operations, bill paying, and tech support. Lisa is a research guru. Matt is coming back into some editorial duties after a sabbatical. Most of the real content on the Archive, though, comes from a lot of generous souls on the discussion boards, and contributors to the essay pages, patterns, and other areas. With the editors and posters, we feel we have a system where people are able to ask questions and get good solid answers quickly.

A: While we can all understand how you would feel, we remind everyone that the Archive is neutral ground, and we do not take well to anyone abusing the hospitality that everyone has worked so hard to build here. Everyone also has an equal voice, so you can say what ever you wish to about anything here on the archive. But we remind you that you are also responsible for what ever you might say.

A: www.rjleahy.com or www.mcmaster.com and there are more...Solid round head or truss head are the most useful for metal-to-metal. Flat head if you like the look. 3/16" dia. x 3/8" length, for the vast majority of jobs. #8 x 5/8" copper belt rivets give the most durable connection/most versatile size for attaching leather to steel.
For rivets in exotic metals, or sizes no one else carries [otherwise they're overpriced]:

Jay-Cee Sales and Rivet
32861 Chesley Dr
Farmington, MI 48336
(248) 478-2150

A: This varies -- anywhere from 3" to 8" wide to 1" to 3" deep. Normally close to the size of the piece you are dishing. You will find that smaller ones sometimes work better than big ones. As a general starter: 6" wide and 2" deep.

A: Preferred method is a B-2 Beverly Shear. Electric shears and even nibblers will also work. Cheaper methods include: a jigsaw with metal-cutting blade [look for at least 18tpi blades, and cut patiently, not forcing it]; hacksaw or jeweler's/coping saw; chisel.

A: Most common tool is a drill [use 135-degree split-point bits; avoid *gimmick* bits like bullet-points, but cobalt and TiN-coated bits work well], but a whitney punch is much handier for making a lot of identical holes.

A: Please check the essays section of the Archive. If you don't find the answer, then ask on the Armor Design and Construction board on the discussion forums.

A: A spun top(top not bowl) is a modern innovation (we might be wrong on this, and are open to authoritative correction) that has become common place in helm construction. Worse than not being a period method, it has this funky hole in the top from the spinning process, it has circular "streaks" that scream I was spun, it's round rather than oval, and for the same cost of a spun top one can purchase a much better looking and more authentic helm.
[i]Side bar:the use of plastic - Members of the archive are some what divided on the use of plastic, they are the "steel rules" and the "plastic is okay, if no one can see it". Both sides can be quite loud about their particular opinions, but all seem to agree that if, in the end the person using plastic is able to maintain a more authentic looking kit, then it is at least acceptable.

A: Stop surfing the web! Apply direct pressure to the wound, and call 911. Direct pressure will help prevent blood loss and give you a better chance of survival. Always keep a well stocked first aid kit around. Make sure you have your insurance cards handy if you go to the emergency room. If it was something really stupid you did, DONT DO IT AGAIN! If it was incredibly stupid, please tell us about it after you're better. We like to laugh at stupidity, so long as everyone ends up okay in the end.

A: When I have a new pattern I use to draw a circle on it as large as possible without leaving the pattern. This is the size for my dishing depression I chisel into a wooden stump.

I made a picture to show what I mean. The red line is the size for the dishing hole.


Dishing stump. The dish in a dishing stump should be basically slightly bigger then your dishing hammer head. This will get you every size and shape of dish you want. If you use powertools to make it read the first aid instructions before starting.

I've seen an interesting way to make a dishing stump. Michah (known on the archive as the_damned_dane) did a little experiment a while back. He made a dishing stump by cutting out the bowl with a die grinder. It made lots of smoke but he ended up with a real nice dishing stump.

A: Be more specific. Tell us what year/era, region and what it is for. Tell us what style you are interested in. Then we can help you. Also go to your local libray and look it up; there are usually some books in both juvenile and adult that should help you find a direction or at least give you some history or idea about the culture/people you are asking about. And finally ask Norman.

A: Do a subject search on the Archive and check the FAQ sheet, then narrow your question down to something a little more specific if it was not covered well enough in the FAQs or archived posts.

A: Actually most modern armor reproductions are worked cold. Which means you really don't need a forge to make armor. However a forge is necessary for some the most difficult aspects of making very accurate reproductions of some types of armor. If you decide that you do need a forge to make armor then you would have asked how do I make a forge. This question is one that is asked by new people. If you already know a bit about making armor then talk to Armadillo. Just be sure to bring your dictionary, thesaurus, translator etc. Or just ask him for the translation and he'll explain all those wierd terms he uses.

A:Here's a nice article on grinder safety... http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor/safety/index.htm

A: If you are looking here for answers to something that can be found in the Essays section, you should be warned that you are a candidate for being beaten with the silly stick.

A: You want to be William Wallace?!?
     ::SMACK::
that's for offending my intelligence.

A: The discussion board supports HTML tags. To post an image, you have to
1. Get the image onto a publicly accessible web site somewhere
2. Make a post
3. Include the text <IMG src="http://the-web-site/path/to/your/image.jpg"> in your post (obviously, substitute your web address and path in there)
Note that many free sites (e.g. GeoCities) do not allow you to access images from their site, unless the page is also on their site.
To post a link to your site in a message, use the standard HTML tag <A href="http://your-web-site/path/to/your/page.html"> in your post.
Alternatively, click on the UBBcode link that's off on the left-hand side of the screen when you make a post, and find out other ways to do this.

A: What the headers are is an attempt to address the complexities of questions.
They are as follows:
  BEG or Beginner - For Basic or Beginner quesions
  INT or Intermediate - For Intermediate level questions
  ADV or Advanced - For Advanced Level Questions
  AUCT or Auction - To notify people of an auction on EBAY or our own auction
  SALE or Specials - Any sales that are not via an auction service

A: In the process of updating, I decided to remove some of the other stuff.