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ARMOR FLUTING PRESS

Press Bit Setup:

Press Bit Setup

English Wheel / Roller Bit Setup:

English Wheel / Roller Bit Setup

Fluted Paldron A set of drawings are available below, but you might want to wait until after I've had a chance to build the first one (I don't know when that will be right now...). You always find things that need to be changed during fabrication. Updates to the drawings and details for more attachments will be supplied as they are completed.
The frame of the Press has been changed to make it out of all one kind of material, and the ram was changed to make it more rigid to side loading.
DETAILED DRAWINGS v2.C w/ Parts List (AutoCAD / Excel Formats) 79.4K

The purchased parts add up to about 80$, then add to that steel (new is about $120) then do the machining and welding (which I haven't had estimated yet, but I'll venture a guess on) may add about $300 for the frame, and maybe $800+ for all of the bits (lots of bits...8 sets for each of two setups plus english wheels) which adds up to about $1200+ total. To reduce this, you could build the basic machine and add the bit sets slowly, cutting the initial investment in half, or you could do all the lathe and mill work and welding yourself like I intend on doing and get the steel from a scrapyard... then it should only cost you a couple hundred.

Christian Fletcher who is a professional armorer in Nampa, Idaho (near Boise) has been helping to specify bits and dimensions.
If you have questions, you can e-mail me from the bottom of this page.

Functional Description:
There are several sets of attachments proposed, each with different functions. See sketches above.

The most obvious setup is as a Fluting Press which presses two opposing bits together. The bits pinch the metal much the same way as putting a flute into a workpiece with a chisel and groove, but with much more control to produce a more precise repeatable flute.

The following bit sets have been drawn up: Half Round w/ Hard (Sharp Edged) Shoulders; 1/2, 3/8, 3/16
Triangular w/ Soft (Rounded) Shoulders; 1/2 x1/4 Dp, 3/8 x3/32 Dp
45 Degree Angled Step; 3/16
Hard 90 Degree Steps; 1/8, 1/16
120 Degree Medial Ridge

The second setup, a Roller Press setup, inserts a set of roller bits into the press arrangement. In this mode, the machine is more like a sheetmetal seamer which puts in grooves by rolling the chisel and groove across the metal. This setup will be more suited to putting in curved flutes like in german gothic work and for edging. The same bit sets have been drawn up for this setup also.

The third setup replaces the rollers with a set of rollers from an English Wheel. The upper roller has a flat face and the lower roller has a curved face. By squeezing the metal between the rollers, it widens the piece slightly. By moving the rollers back and forth across the piece in a set pattern, you can dish out a piece. This type of machine is used by custom body shops to make custom metal race car bodies. The resulting parts can be dished quickly and controllably to produce a very smooth evenly formed part with compound curves; ideal for shaping breastplates, pauldrons, etc. Cops may be difficult, but should also be dishable this way. I'll have to test it and see how tight of a radius can actually be formed.

A fourth setup is envisioned, but it will have to wait a while. I have the drawings from a chain mail knitter which I intend on adapting to produce a ChainMail Stapler attachment.

I also intend on doing a set of press bits for setting rivets, since they are such a pain to do in tight places and will be easy to draw up. Also, another varient I have in mind is a set of cutting blades for the press setup. My power shears do straight lines well, but don't cut curves at all, and our local armory's beverly shear is limited as well.