Finished April 11, 2000

Pair of arms 1050 Carbon Steel 18ga. Heat treated (quenched at 1500F and Tempered to 600F) (shown 1st)
Note that the turning pins and the interlocking tabs on the vambrace are not correct for 15th century Italian arm harnesses. The turning pins were added at the buyer's request. The correct way of closing the vambrace is a single strap and buckle. The interlocking tabs were added as reenforcements for SCA rattan combat.

Finished Jan. 2000

Pair of arms 1050 Carbon Steel 18ga. and 20ga. Heat treated (quenched at 1500F and Tempered to 600F) (left arm shown 2nd)

Left arm 304 Stainless Steel 18ga. and 20ga.
Right arm 304 Stainless Steel 16ga. and 18ga.

Finished April 1999
 

Right arm 304 Stainless Steel 18ga. and 20ga. (for tournaments)

Finished Sept. 1999

Pair of  arms 1050 Carbon Steel 18ga. and 20ga.  Heat treated (quenched at 1500F and Tempered to 600F) (left arm shown 2nd)

Finished Jan. 2000

Pair of  arms 1050 Carbon Steel 18ga. Heat treated (quenched at 1500F and Tempered to 600F) (shown 1st)
Note that the turning pins and the interlocking tabs on the vambrace are not correct for 15th century Italian arm harnesses. The turning pins were added at the buyer's request; the correct way of closing the vambrace is a single strap and buckle. The interlocking tabs were added as reenforcements for SCA rattan combat.

Finished April 11, 2000

Updated Patterns on April 11,2000

Patterns (Click on thumbnail to get the full-size image)

• Rerebrace (Upper Cannon)
  
  
• Elbow and Lames
  
  
• Vambrace Top and Bottom
  
  

These arm harnesses are based on a set in Churburg made in the early 1400's. They are shown in the Churburg catalog on suit #18 and in "European Armour: circa 1066 to circa 1700" by Claude Blair. When you print out the patterns be sure to print them as 8.5 inches by 11 inches with no margins. The arms are size medium (maybe a bit on the small side). The vambrace (or lower cannon) should be a fairly tight fit but not so tight at the wrist that it inhibits wrist motion. You may need to adjust the rivet holes on the lanes connected to the couter (i.e. "elbow cop"). If the lanes don't move far enough try making another lane with the rivet holes for the side having the problem a 1/16 of an inch closer to the center. If the lane is gaping then try making a lane with the rivet holes for that side a 1/16 of an inch closer to the edge.

I would build these arms in the following order:

1. Cut out the plates
2. Punch any holes which are on the patterns
3. Finish the plate edges and corners
4. Roll the edges of both the vambrace halves marked --ROLL-- on the pattern
5. Dish couter/"elbow cop" and shape the wing. Raise/Shape the front of the vambrace. Shape the other plates.
6. Fine tune the articulation. Optional: Cut slots for the sliding rivets connecting the vambrace to the outer lane.
7. Polish the plates
8. Assemble the arms. Add the hinge for the vambrace. Add catch tabs for the vambrace.
9. Add the straps.  Optional: Add spring pins for the vambrace.